Alaska

There is fairly little information on the city of Barrow, Alaska - high above the Arctic Circle. The city’s official visitor page is beyond lame.

If you are planning on visiting Barrow, this is my weak attempt at relaying at least what I found.

Note: the original post on my Barrow visit is here.

Being wired

My Verizon extended network did NOT work. Expect to be using your hotel phone for long-distance calls. Also strongly consider using a satellite “check-in” gadget such as Spot. It does work in the Arctic, even though the satellite coverage for it grows weaker the further north you go, allegedly.

What to wear

Barrow is the coldest town in the United States, if you consider the average temperatures. It can be very cold and damp even during the “hottest” month of July, with temperatures in the 40’s. It’s the kind of very uncomfortable weather we get on some winter days on the damp East Coast. If you are from the Northeast, wear basically what you wear in December. We are talking a warm dome and gloves. Yes - gloves.

If you are planning to trek into the tundra, bring a pair of very nice water-proof boots. The tundra is basically a giant sponge to walk on during summers.

What to bring

• A compass - it can also help you find your way in the city itself, since Barrow is kind of disorienting.
• A print-out map of the city, just in case. Do ask for the brochure from a cab driver or at your hotel. The official brochure has a very nice map and lots of info.
• As mentioned before, IF you already own something to the effect of the Spot satellite messenger, bring it. If you are planning on going into the tundra alone (or even not alone), a personal locator beacon is almost a must. These are expensive, but they are guaranteed to work anywhere on the planet.

Alcohol

Barrow is a damp town - meaning possession is legal but sale is not. There are NO bars or liquor stores. Barrow has a very bitter history of alcohol abuse, so it’s generally frowned upon. You can “posses” a bottle in your check-in luggage, but be discrete - don’t show up trashed in a hotel lobby. Definitely do not even try to sell any, no matter how lucrative the deal may appear to be - it’s illegal.

Getting around

Taxis are everywhere, and the reasonable rates are controlled by the town. In July 2008, it cost me $5-6 before tips to get to-from the airport. It’s not a long trip, however.

Rent a car from UIC Rental. This will give you a much longer range if you are trying to go into the tundra along any of the roads leading out of the city.

On foot is the best way to see Barrow - it’s a fairly concentrated area. Always bring a map with you! The locals are very friendly and will be glad to help out if you are lost.

Places of interest

If you are in town for a few nights, you probably want to know where the grocery store is. Barrow has a supermarket – AC – which is located in Browerville. Get a cab to get there, or from the Wells Fargo bank near the police department:

• Go north-east towards the Ocean, and around the nearby lagoon, on Eben Hopson Street
• After the lagoon, this becomes Laura Madison Street
• Just a couple blocks over you will hit Ahkovak Street, where the AC market is

What to do during Summer

1. Go outside late at night, when it’s light out, and greet the midnight sun.
2. See Fran Tate - owner of Pepe’s North of The Border Mexican Restaurant - to become a member of the Polar Bear Club. You have to dive into 35-degree waters, though.
3. Joe “The Waterman” Shults, who also works at Pepe’s, has a personal museum with a load of fascinating Barrow artifacts. He gives his visitors a tour at 10 PM (after he gets off work).
4. Get into the tour bus going from the Top of the World Hotel to Point Barrow - the northernmost point in the U.S. You may see a polar bear!
5. Trek into the arctic tundra to see 185 species of birds nesting. They are all over the place. You have two options. 1) Follow Stevenson Street south-west, to and around the airport, past the satellite farm, towards the Fresh Water Lake. Birds nest all along the area. 2) Follow Cakeater Road. You can get there from Angeak -> Kaleak streets in Browerville.

Dangers

Polar bears, which are MUCH more dangerous than any other kind of bear in Alaska. Even during Summers. especially recently, these have been seen in the tundra, as the shore ice melts more and more every year. The locals pack major heat in case a bear charges, but you will probably not have that luxury. Stay alert at all times no matter where you are. Keep your eyes on the horizon to give yourself some lead time. Stay near roads or structures unless you have a vehicle.

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